English books can break your budget!

You can live very cheaply in Spain – making it ideal for people who retire here – but if you’re a keen reader you will soon discover that buying books in English can break your budget!  This is particularly true for those of us who live inland, as local bookshops stock mainly Spanish books (which aren’t exactly cheap) and the few English books that they sell are expensive. 

That was how we came up with the idea of having a monthly bookswap for other British people living in the area.  I think all of us had brought piles of books  with us when we first moved over here, but had read them all after living here for a few years. 

The garden at Bar La Casa

We decided to hold the bookswap between 11.00 and 12.00  on the first Tuesday of the month in Bar La Casa, which is next to the Centro de Salud in Jumilla.  We chose Tuesday as that is market day, so most people come into Jumilla to buy the delicious – and cheap – fresh fruit and vegetables in the local market.  We decided on Bar La Casa partly because – from necessity – most retired people know where the Health Centre is and partly because there is a lovely enclosed garden at the back, which is an ideal place to enjoy a coffee or cold drink in the summer months.  During the winter months we sit inside in the restaurant area, as they have an open fire there, which usually has a couple of smouldering logs to keep us warm!

If you are thinking of moving to Spain, you may want to set up a similar scheme.  Not only is it a good way of saving money, but also it helps you make more friends who speak the same language.  We have some wonderful Spanish friends here, but it is good to be able to speak your own language occasionally and not have to think about it.  Having said that, one English friend speaks Spanish so fluently that she sometimes forgets the odd English word!

Although the bookswap is a monthly event, most of us now pop into Bar La Casa at about 12.00 on the other Tuesdays of the month, for a general catch up and gossip. Today we looked at the programmes for the fiestas of San Fermin and San Cristobel, and decided which acts we would watch later on in the week.

The good news though, if there aren’t any other English people living in your area, is that you can now order books online from Amazon.co.uk and, if you spend a minimum of £25, they offer free Super Saver delivery to Spain.  If you haven’t read my book “Retiring the Olé Way” yet, why not add it to your basket? (Shameless plug alert!)

Tarragona – the unknown city

Castellers of Tarragona

Tarragona is surprisingly free of foreign tourists, which for John and me was one of its many charms.  We decided to visit the city to celebrate my 60th birthday: as pensioners we are always looking for somewhere a bit different that is not too expensive.  Since then we have retired to Spain and now live in the Murcia region, however we plan to visit other parts of our adopted country for holidays, which will include a return trip to Tarragona.

Our ideal holiday is not about lying on beaches soaking up the sun, which we both regard as a total waste of time; it’s more about visiting places, soaking up the culture and enjoying the local food accompanied by a few glasses of good wine.  This being the case, Tarragona proved to be the ideal destination for us.

We had looked at the Tarragona Tourist website beforehand, so that we could plan what to do and see to make the most of our stay there: http://www.tarragonaturisme.cat/.   Information is available in English and other languages, as well as Spanish, and the website is very comprehensive.

We decided to buy a one-day Tarragona Card, which gave us free entry to the city’s monuments, free bus tickets, plus discounts in many restaurants, shops etc.  Rather than try and fit everything into one day, we bought the card after lunch on our first day. As it lasted 24 hours, we could then spread our “site” seeing over two days.  We also made sure that we used the card at those monuments that cost the most, in case we couldn’t cram them all in.  For other penny-pinching pensioners, check whether you will in fact make a saving buying the card, as over 65s get half-price or free entry to many of the places listed.  The card cost us €14 for 24 hours, however it is now on sale at €15 for 48 hours, which is definitely a bargain!  You should be aware however that most museums are closed on Mondays, so that isn’t a good day for visiting them!

We spent our first day walking along Tarragona’s Roman route.  As the Roman archaeological complex of Tarraco has been declared a World Heritage Site, we didn’t want to miss any of it.  The highlight for me was the well-preserved Amphitheatre with views of the Mediterranean, although the Roman Circus, where you could almost hear the thunder of the horse-drawn chariots and the roar of the crowds, was a close second.  John enjoyed wandering around the Local Forum and also walking along the Walls, which had great views over the surrounding countryside as well as the city.  We had a lot of fun trying to find the Francoli River Paleochristian Complex until we realised that it was actually within the shopping centre, down in the parking area!

Approach to the city walls

There is more to Tarragona than its Roman remains, as we discovered on our second day when we walked along the Mediaeval route.  We explored the streets around the Cathedral, which was of course the star attraction, however there were many other monuments worth seeing, amongst them the Cloisters, the Chapels of St Paul and St Tecla. The Ancient Hospital of St Tecla,  and the King’s Castle.  St Tecla is the patron saint of Tarragona and we have been told that the fiesta of Santa Tecla, which is held in September, is well worth seeing.  We plan to visit Tarragona in September next time as we always enjoy taking part in Spanish fiestas.

We also appreciated the splendour of Casa Canals and Casa Castellarnau, which shouldn’t be missed if you like looking around magnificent old houses.  Other cultural highlights for us were the Museum of Modern Art, the National Archeological Museum and the Museum of the Port of Tarragona. 

Courtyard in Casa Castellarnau

If the weather is good and you don’t want to be indoors, many of the monuments I have mentioned are outside. Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the Rambla Nova and the Balcón del Mediterráneo, then pop into the Amphitheatre, before heading along Rambla Vella to see the Roman Circus and then make your way to the maze of streets around the Cathedral . 

All this walking increased our appetite, so luckily eating out in Tarragona proved to be a pleasurable experience.  We discovered that many good restaurants do a cheap menu del día at lunch time, so we would make that our main meal, having either one course or just tapas for our evening meal.

Tarragona is a charming city, with plenty to see and do. We crammed as much as we could into the four days that we stayed there, however a longer stay would have allowed us a bit more time just to relax.  In case I haven’t already tempted you to visit Tarragona, I should mention that there are plenty of shops and lovely sandy beaches too, making it the ideal holiday location for everyone – even those of you who aren’t interested in history and culture.

Top Tips

Restaurants

Down at the Port, which we expected to be pricey because of the location, we enjoyed a delicious menu del día at La Botiga on Calle Trafalgar for only €10.50. 

We also enjoyed an evening meal at Restaurante Passadis on Calle Estanislau Figueres, where we were given 10% discount using our Tarragona Card.

After a filling menu del día we went out for tapas in the evening.  Cañas y Tapas on Calle Apodaca had some good special deals but there are many other inexpensive bars and restaurants to be discovered.

Hotels

We stayed at the SB Express*** on Plaça de les Corts Catalanes, which we chose on the basis that it was a budget hotel and looked fairly central.  We discovered that it was actually a bit of a walk into the centre of Tarragona, so it was fortunate that we are both pretty fit.  The hotel was in a quiet area and for the price we thought it was good value.

The Husa Imperial Tarraco **** on Passeig de Las Palmeres is in an ideal location for sight-seeing, although obviously you pay the price for that, especially with its four-star facilities.

For those on a strict budget the 2-star Catalunya Express is worth considering, and as a bonus it is close to the regional Railway Station.

Don´t miss

 

Tarragona is renowned for its Roman archaeological complex, and even if you don’t enjoy history you can’t fail to be impressed by the Amphitheatre and Roman Circus.

If you like the sea no doubt you will want to head for the beaches, but don’t forget to visit the Port too, especially at lunch time when you can enjoy the fresh fish.

After that delicious lunch, why not walk off all those calories and enjoy the views with a promenade along the city walls?

Jumilla: the hidden jewel

 

Jumilla Castillo

Jumilla is the hidden jewel in northeast Murcia.  It is a typically Spanish country town – best known to wine-drinkers for its red wine and many bodegas – and is surrounded by mountains and vineyards.  Anybody staying on the Costa Blanca or Costa Calida who wants to experience the real Spain should venture inland and visit Jumilla.

Most people who visit here say that they are surprised by how big the town is, and you certainly need to spend at least one day in Jumilla to see the main sights and of course to enjoy some of its fine wines!

Wandering through the narrow streets of the old town gives an insight into the fascinating history of Jumilla, which was occupied by the Iberians, Romans and Arabs before the Spanish king Alfonso X re-conquered what was then known as Xumilla for the Kingdom of Castile in 1241.

Jardín del Rey Don Pedro

Important historic monuments include the well-preserved 5th century mausoleum known as El Casón, the impressive 15th century Church of Santiago and the recently restored Castle. The fortress that we see today dominating the skyline was constructed in 1461 by Juan Pacheco, the Marquis of Villena.

Other places worth visiting in Jumilla include several interesting museums, the lovely 19th century Teatro Vico, modernist style houses, as well as charming squares and gardens to explore.

Just outside the town there are several good walks for those of you who enjoy being active, especially in the Sierra de El Carche and Sierra de Santa Ana. If you go to the Sierra de Santa Ana, a visit to the Monasterio and its fascinating museum is a must.

Monasterio at Santa Ana

The good news for those of you on a budget is that a day trip to Jumilla won’t cost you a fortune.  The majority of museums are free and the privately owned Museo Jésus Nazareno only charges 1€, which should not break the bank. 

Contact Walkers Tours of Jumilla if you would like a free guided walk around Jumilla in English (and Scottish!). Sue and John can arrange for you to visit a local bodega for 5€, which includes wine-tasting and snacks, and if you fancy having lunch in Jumilla they are able to recommend several local restaurants, where you can have a delicious menú del día from 8€ including all your drinks.  What are you waiting for?

Córdoba is cool

Puerta de Almodóvar

Actually it was very hot the day we visited Córdoba, but it is a really cool city and we loved it there.  I don’t think I have ever taken so many photos of one place on one day.  We weren’t the only tourists, but even that didn’t detract from Córdoba’s charm.

Our mission was to enjoy ourselves in Córdoba without spending a fortune, and I believe we succeeded.  Getting there by train from Sevilla wasn’t expensive, particularly as we are over 60 so have a Tarjeta Dorada from Renfe, which costs us 5.05 € for one year and gives us discounts between 25% and 40% on  Spanish trains. 

Again it is important to research in advance as train fares between Sevilla and Córdoba can vary between 10.80 € and 32.60 € (before discounts) depending on which train you catch.  We bought our tickets the day before from a machine and were puzzled to see a message saying there had been an error and to go to the counter.  Our tickets looked perfectly OK but we did as we had been told.  Apparently we were owed 5 cents each for our tickets!

Tower and Patio de los Naranjos outside the Mezquita

If we had been real cheapskates we would have caught an earlier train:  top tip for keeping costs down in Córdoba is to visit the Mezquita between 8 and 10.30 and get in for free!   I have to admit though that the 8 € entrance fee was worth every cent:  the Mezquita is truly awesome.  According to my guidebook, Córdoba’s Mezquita is the most outstanding example of Islamic art in the Western World, and I’m not going to argue with that.  A photo cannot do justice to the dazzling sight of more than 850 columns of granite, jasper and marble supporting the roof.

Inside the Mezquita

 The original mosque was built between the eighth and eleventh centuries.  After the Christian Reconquest in 1236 a number of alterations were made and then in 1523, when Don Alonso Manrique was Bishop of Córdoba, the construction of a cathedral within the mosque began in the centre of the original Islamic temple.  It’s an incredible sight.

A chapel inside the mosque

An hour later and we emerged from the darkness of the Mezquita to continue our exploration of Córdoba.  We headed to the river to see the Roman Bridge, with a statue of St Raphael the Archangel, the guardian of the city, in its centre.  Our next destination was the Alcázar de los Reyes Católicos, the fortress built in 1328 on the instructions of Alfonso XI.  If my birthday had been on 1st September, which was on Wednesday this year, entry would have been free.  Never mind, it was worth 4 € to look around the Alcázar, climb up the tower for great views and then stroll around the peaceful gardens.

Gardens of the Alcázar

We had spent nearly four hours wandering around the streets of Córdoba and visiting some of its stunning monuments, so not surprisingly our thoughts turned to food when we left the Alcázar.  We had seen several restaurants near the Mezquita, and I had looked up a few on the internet before we started our trip, however this was my birthday and I wanted to celebrate in style!  Luckily for John’s wallet, my choice was to have ménu del día at Bodegas Mezquita. 

An "English" lady strolling along the passageway

We had noticed that there were cheaper places around, however the wide choice of dishes tempted us to go there, and it only cost us 12.60 € for three courses and a drink.  John splashed out on a bottle of wine – after all it was my birthday.  Inevitably, because of its proximity to the Mezquita, there were many other tourists there, including four obviously British tourists that we spotted when we arrived just after 2pm.  They left shortly after that – clearly still following British timetables!  We were brought a complimentary glass of vino dulce with our desserts, which we thought was a nice touch. 

Bodegas Mezquita Restaurante

After our delicious meal, we were ready for more sightseeing.  We knew we couldn’t see everything in one day, but we had made a list of “must-sees” that included the Synagogue, Casa Andalusí and the Archaeological Museum, which is housed in the Renaissance Páez de Castillejo Palace and apparently is one of Spain’s best.  Entry for the Synagogue was free as was entry to the Museum, although you have to be a citizen of the EU. 

Archaeological Museum

We paid 2.50 € to look round the Casa Andalusí, but it is such a quaint house, with lots of nooks and crannies, a Mudéjar courtyard and a paper museum: I certainly felt it was value for money. 

 

A corner of the Casa Andalusí
We loved our day out in Córdoba: every corner that we turned revealed another interesting place to see and another photo opportunity.  I have posted more photos of both Córdoba and Sevilla on my facebook page.  One day we will return and I will have even more photos to share with everybody!

Sue’s View on Sevilla

Seville Cathedral

We had been to Seville before and enjoyed ourselves so much that we decided to make my birthday trip this year a two-centre break: Córdoba and Sevilla.  In the interests of research for “Spain on a budget”, and having had an expensive year with visits to England for two weddings and my daughter’s 40th birthday, we determined to keep the costs down as much as possible.  Seville is not a cheap city, however it is still possible to have an enjoyable visit there without spending a fortune.

We had a good start to our budget trip: love them or hate them, you have to admit that Ryanair have some good flight deals and we flew from Alicante to Seville for the grand total of 66.42 € for the two of us. 

Our next tip is not to book a hotel in the city centre if you are on a budget.  We looked at Destinia and found a 3-star hotel (Hotel Plaza Santa Lucia) that was handy for Santa Justa railway station where the airport bus stops, and which cost 110 € for two night’s bed and breakfast.   There are plenty of buses around, but it didn’t take us long to walk into the historic centre of Sevilla.

Waiting for breakfast in the patio of our hotel

Seville is a great city for tapas, however they aren’t necessarily the cheapest way to eat, especially if you are hungry!  We checked out a couple of places online so we knew where we were heading to once we arrived.  Just around the corner from out hotel was Café Bar Trinidad on the corner of Calle Trinidad and Calle María Auxiliador: as promised by our research the tapas were good and also cheap, which explained why so many locals were eating there.  Prices are usually more reasonable in the local barrios rather than the city centre.  We had a lovely evening meal for 24€ on our first night at Taberna Manzanilla on Plaza de los Terceros, sitting outside and watching the world go by.  We also had a good evening meal at La Abuela on Calle San Julían although I could only manage a couple of tapas, having had a superb menú del día earlier on a day trip to Córdoba (see my next post for more details!).  The bill was just over 21€ including an excellent bottle of wine.

Remember that Shanks' pony won't cost you anything!

Advance planning is also essential when sight-seeing, as some monuments are free one day a week, which is particularly annoying if you visit one on the following day and have to pay!  Luckily we visited the Torre del Oro on Tuesday so entry was free, saving us the grand total of 1€ each!

 Anybody between the ages of 27 and 64 doesn’t have to feel left out as the Museo de Bellas Artes is free for EU citizens, so have your passport handy, and finally nobody has to pay to go in the Archivo de Indias, which is well worth a visit.  Be warned that the English pirates were the bad guys, especially Sir Francis Drake!

My best tip though is just to enjoy strolling along the narrow streets in the barrio of Santa Cruz, near the Cathedral and Real Alcázar.  There are so many picturesque plazas, patios adorned with bright flowers and hidden corners to explore – and unless you are tempted into a souvenir shop or bar it won’t cost you anything.

Seville courtyard

More on the Mar Menor

Santiago de la Ribera paseo

As well as sight-seeing along La Manga strip we wanted to explore the other shore of the Mar Menor, especially when we discovered that there was a large market at Santiago de la Ribera on Wednesday.  Pensioners on a budget love markets! 

Not having a car, we realised that the easiest and cheapest way to go there was to cross the Mar Menor on the ferry.  We found the winter timetable for B & F Ferrys in Mar Menor Focus (The little mag to keep in your bag), which can also be read online at: http://www.marmenorfocus.es/.  I have to confess to a vested interest in recommending that you read Mar Menor Focus if you are planning to holiday in the area: I write a regular column for the magazine!

A lovely calm Mar Menor

Whenever we had gazed over the Mar Menor we had seen a lovely calm stretch of water, however on Wednesday morning it looked a bit choppy.  I´m not saying that I am a nervous sailor, however the first thing I do when I get on a boat is to check out the life-jacket situation.  Hmm, it wasn´t looking too good as all I could see was one life-belt and lots of people clambering on board.  I did notice a locker in front of us, so no doubt the life-jackets were stored there and we would go through the safety drill before leaving the harbour.

Did I mention that the crew were all Spanish?  Spain isn´t too hot on health and safety….. We were soon on our way, without any safety drill, and a group of Brits sitting behind us were making funny comments about how low the ferry was in the water, and pointing out water pouring in through a gap around the porthole.  As for the locker, one of the crew had pinned up a notice about drinks for sale and I suspected that the drinks were stored there, meaning no life-jackets.  Was I nervous?  What do you think?

Ferry cross the Mar Menor

Fortunately for my nerves the crossing only took half an hour and at last I was on dry land, swearing that we would find another way to return to La Manga.

Wandering around the market calmed me down, and the purchase of a pair of ballet pumps for 5€ cheered me up: markets are seriously good for your health!  The market stretched for nearly a mile, with bargains galore, and the crowds of shoppers made the walk from one end to the other a leisurely stroll.  At least it helped us work up a healthy appetite, for our next goal was to find a good restaurant for lunch.

We were tempted by a couple of fish restaurants on the sea front, however they were over our budget.  We have been told by friends that the food at both of them is very good, so if you fancy splashing out why not try one of them?

Our choice was Bar Centro Mar on the main road, which tempted us with its 8€ menu and the range of dishes it offered.  It proved a good choice and we will definitely go there again on our next visit:  good value for money and friendly staff.  Most of the other customers were Spanish, though we did hear another British couple ordering and were surprised that they didn´t go for the menú del día.  Ordering even a few items from the Carta can prove more expensive than having the menú del día, and the other advantage of choosing the set menu is you probably won´t need to eat for the rest of the day.

We enjoyed walking around Santiago, but at the back of my mind was the question of how we were going to travel back to La Manga. 

“I don´t mind if we have to catch four buses,” I told John.  “I´ll pay!”  However although we saw a bus stop there was no timetable and no sign of a bus, and the ferry was leaving soon.  I didn´t have any choice.

Why had I been so worried?  The Mar Menor was beautifully calm on the way back, and I was able to stand in the bows of the ferry taking photos to my heart´s content.  I loved that ferry, and can thoroughly recommend a day trip from La Manga to Santiago de la Ribera!

I love boats!

Mar Menor – más o menos?

View of the Mediterranean from the balcony of our hotel room

In Spain there are many advantages to being “mayores”,which can mean either grown-ups or elderly and sounds far better than the English equivalents of “OAP” or “elderly”!  One of the plus points if you are of retirement age and live in Spain is the various deals for cheap holidays. 

John´s bank Cajamurcia was doing a special offer for mayores of 55+, and if you shared a room only one of you had to be over 55. You could stay for 5 nights in a 4-star hotel at La Manga de Mar Menor, with full board and use of most of its facilities, for only 165€ per person plus a discount of 5% for all Cajamurcia customers.  We decided to try it out, and can thoroughly recommend the deal.

Our holiday started on Sunday night when, after checking in, we went down for dinner, our first meal in the hotel.  Dinner wasn´t exactly an unqualified success as we had arrived just before the start of the second sitting, and by the time we helped ourselves to fish, meat and vegetables the food was only lukewarm.  John was starting to mutter about having to go out for dinner if we wanted a decent meal, and I had to agree with him.  The salad that we had helped ourselves to for starters was good and all the desserts were cold anyway, so the rest of the meal was enjoyable, but the main courses left a lot to be desired.  The highlight had to be the bottle of wine that was left on our table, which was from Bodegas San Isidro in Jumilla, the nearest bodega to our home there!

There were no complaints about breakfast, where there was a wide range to choose from: breakfast cereals, yoghourts, fruit, cold meat and cheeses, croissants and pastries, eggs and bacon or sausages, bread for toasting (with olive oil and chopped tomatoes beside the toaster for their Spanish guests), plus juices and hot drinks.  This helped to make up for dinner the previous night, so we decided that we would try out lunch later on, after exploring our surroundings.

View of La Manga strip from Cabo de Palos

We decided to head for Cabo de Palos and have a look at its lighthouse, which we had seen from our balcony.  Cabo de Palos is a Spanish fishing village although being on the coast it is also popular with holiday makers. 

If you take the shortest route, it is just over 3km from Hotel Entremares to the Cabo de Palos Faro, so we decided to take the short route there and the longer route back.  It wasn´t just that we wanted to increase the distance of our walk: by going the long way round we would also see the fishing port!

A pleasant stroll up to the Faro

It was a lovely March day, so we enjoyed our stroll beside the blue Mediterranean and then through the gardens leading up to the lighthouse.  We weren´t the only ones enjoying the views – though unfortunately we couldn´t go inside the lighthouse – and everybody else was busy taking photos too.   

We then headed towards the Puerto, glancing at the many restaurants overlooking the harbour: lovely views and lovely prices to match!  We decided to have a coffee, which cost us 2.60€ for a café solo and café cortado: not exactly extortionate, but more than the 2€ we paid elsewhere at La Manga.  The cheapest menú del día that we saw was 15€, so we agreed that we would try the buffet lunch at our hotel and head for the hot buffet first in the hope that the food would still be hot!

Fisherman mending his nets at Cabo de Palos Puerto

Our strategy proved successful, so after that we made sure that we went for dinner early on and had the hot course before having soup or salad.  The food definitely tasted better by being freshly cooked, so we will remember that in future if we go to a hotel with buffet meals!

Being on the coast we noticed that there were a lot more British bars than inland, where we live.  If you are on a budget you are better going to the Spanish bars, where they may very well speak English anyway.  We paid 2€ for a glass of wine in Paddywacks and 2.50€ for a glass of wine in Nobby´s Cantina, whereas the most we paid in Spanish bars was 1.50€, including free tapas such as olives or nuts.  Not surprisingly, the British bars were full of English speaking customers, though apparently Paddywacks is popular with Spanish people too.

On our second day we took the bus to the end of La Manga.  Although we enjoy walking it was over 18k to the end of the strip, plus it cost 1.05€ no matter how far you went on the local bus so we wanted to get value for money!

In actual fact the bus doesn´t quite go to the end and we discovered why when we reached the bridge a bit further down:

The bridge is just as steep on the other side!

Costa Blanca doesn´t have to mean Costalot

View of Alicante puerto in January

Over the years the Costa Blanca has become a popular holiday spot for many British tourists, however with the poor exchange rate at the moment you may be worried about how expensive your holiday will be.  If so, instead of heading for the usual holiday resorts, why not consider staying in the city of Alicante?

Not a lot of people know this (apologies to Michael Caine!), but Alicante has good beaches, lots to do for all the family, great shopping and many reasonably priced bars and restaurants.  It is an ideal base for exploring the Costa Blanca for those of you who are on a budget.

At the end of January we stayed at Hotel Maya, situated near the Playa de Postiguet, Plaza Mar 2 shopping centre and the Castillo de Santa Bárbara: a good choice therefore for those who enjoy sunbathing, shopping and sight-seeing!  We used the Destinia website for booking, and they gave us a good deal at the hotel: just over 40 euros for our double room plus a substantial buffet breakfast.  Obviously prices will be a lot higher in the summer months, however not nearly as high as if you stay in Benidorm or Torrevieja.

View from the Castillo

Although the hotel is on the outskirts of Alicante, it is only a 15 minute walk to the city centre, with the option of taking the tram if feeling too lazy to walk. 

We found two good restaurants close to the hotel: Mesón Tio Faustino and Restaurante Lagar, both of which did a ménu del noche for around 15 euros.  The food at both restaurants was excellent value, so not surprisingly they were both busy.  Luckily we had booked in advance at Restaurante Lagar as it isn´t very big and, although it was quiet when we went in for a drink and to check when they closed, it was almost full when we returned for dinner.  

Waiting for the food to arrive at Mesón Tio Faustino

At Méson Tio Faustino they were particularly good about my meal:  I had ordered bacalao but they hadn´t mentioned it was a la vizcaína.  I can´t eat tomatoes, so my face fell when the cod arrived covered with the wretched things.  As soon as I explained the problem, they whisked my plate away and brought me grilled tuna instead, which I admit made the others a bit envious.

On Sunday night the local restaurants and bars were closed, so we headed towards the centre of Alicante.  Our friend´s daughter had recommended Restaurante Bruno Caruso, which we managed to stumble upon when searching for places that were open.  It was fortunate that by then we had worked up good appetites as the portions were huge, although we still managed to squeeze in some delicious desserts!

The Casco Antiguo (old town) is well worth exploring, and there are plenty of cafes and bars to pop into if you start to feel fatigued.  Whatever you do, don´t miss seeing the Castillo, if only for the amazing views when you get to the top.  If you don´t feel energetic there is a lift on Avenida Jovellanos, opposite Playa Postiguet , which was free when we visited the castle because of works that were going on at the time.  It is in fact free throughout the year if you are a pensioner.

Alicante Ayuntamiento

Tips for other places to visit along the Costa Blanca: Calpe, Altea, Villajoyosa, Santa Pola and Guardamar.  These are picturesque destinations that are popular with Spaniards as well as Brits, where you can enjoy a reasonably priced menu del día especially if you avoid places with English menus outside! 

Sunset over Benidorm beach

If you really want to go to Benidorm it´s an easy drive from Alicante or you can take the tram there.   If you´ve never been to Benidorm you should certainly go there at least once.  I recommend going to Playa Poniente: you may be pleasantly surprised.

Morning coffee overlooking Alicante Playa

Even sitting on the seafront at Alicante didn´t cost us an arm and a leg: the Costa Blanca doesn´t have to mean Costalot.

More Money-saving Top Tips

Match Point DVD: the latest offer from La Verdad newspaper
 
1.  Spanish newspapers often have reader offers similar to UK papers.  We have bought DVDs for 0.50 or 1 € with our Sunday paper and if the original language is English (which is usually the case) you can watch the DVD in English.  We have also bought crockery and jewellery using coupons from the paper.

2.  Many towns and cities in Spain now provide free WIFI in public areas, plus certain bars also advertise free WIFI, so if you take your laptop to Spain you shouldn´t have too many problems accessing the internet.  Check the website of the local Ayuntamiento as well as looking out for bars in the area advertising free WIFI.  In Jumilla there is a public Internet Aula where you can either use your laptop for WIFI access or use their PCS for free by handing over your residencia card or passport.

3.  In Murcia there are “Todo a Dos” shops, which have become a favourite haunt of mine, as you can buy jewellery and accessories there for only 2 €.  John´s niece Fiona became a fan too after shopping there on a recent stay with us in Jumilla!

4.  Local libraries usually have a few books in English and it is free to register with them.  Also look out for English language book exchanges: we have started one here in Jumilla on the first Tuesday of the month.  Contact me for the latest book list.

5.  Many bars are responding to what is called the “crisis” here in Spain by offering special deals such as a tapa y caña or vino y tapa for 1.80 € .  I am happy to recommend a few places in Jumilla!  We have registered with Hostemur in Murcia so they email us with their latest offers when they hold a Ruta del Taps, plus we check in the La Verdad paper(region of Murcia edition) for similar deals.

“Vino y Queso, mejor que un beso”

Montesinos are one of the sponsors of "Vino y Queso, mejor que un beso"!

From now until 14 March, 10 establishments in Jumilla are offering 1 Tapa (which must include cheese) and 1 Vino for 2 € – and you also get a free scratchcard with your purchase.  To date, we have won 2 lots of cheese, 1 large sausage, 2 miniatures of sherry and 2 miniatures of vodka, so we´re not complaining!

As well as this, if you visit all 10 establishments and vote for your favourite tapa, your card will be entered in a prize draw. 

Restaurante San Agustin wins our vote, with 3 excellent tapas, however we also recommend: in 2nd place, Restaurante Reyes Católicos; in 3rd place, Cervecería Nuestro Bar; and in joint 4th place, Bar La Casa &  Bar Bocatería QT APTC.  You may also want to try Casa Canales, which gives you all 3 of their tapas plus a small measure of wine for 2€ and, until 14th March, you can buy three bottles of wine from Bodegas Carchelo (one of the sponsors) for the price of two.  Enjoy!

Top Tips for those on a budget

1.  Depending on where you are, menu del día can cost as little as 7.50 € and rarely costs more than 10 €.  For this princely sum you may get a salad to share, followed by 3 courses, drinks (often a bottle of wine between two people), bread with coffee to finish.  After this feast, you probably won´t want much to eat in the evening – so that´s another saving!

2.  Some regions give free or subsidised travel to pensioners and to students.  Even if you don´t get this, over 60s can buy a Tarjeta Dorada for 5 € which gives savings of between 25% and 40% with RENFE.  This is also available for younger people with disabilities.  Before you book your RENFE train though, have a look at the Spanish website.  I discovered that there were “Estrella” offers on there for Preferente or First class, which was a better deal than going Turisto class using the Tarjeta Dorada, as it included a newspaper, your meal and drinks, plus all the comfort of travelling First class.

3.  As in the UK, it pays to shop around.  We have signed up for loyalty cards with both Consum and Dia.  Each month we get offers from Consum, plus a cheque based on how much we have spent the previous month.  At Dia, we receive vouchers when we pay for our shopping, which gives us discounts off a range of products over the month.

4. Visit your local bodega for wine, as you can usually sample some first, and also it will cost less than in the supermarket.  You can even take a plastic bottle to fill up with vino de mesa at incredibly low prices.

Main market in Jumilla 004.JPG

5.  The local market is also a good place to shop for a wide selection of cheap fruit and vegetables , as well as many other products, and don´t forget your local pescaderia for fresh fish at bargain prices.

6.  Look through your local papers for special events and free offers.  We regularly go to the theatre for free or cheap concerts, which we have seen in the local paper.  We also noticed in La Verdad that buses were free on Sundays in December – ideal for Christmas shopping.

7.  You don´t even have to buy your paper: just go to a local bar for your morning coffee (usually no more than 1€) and read the papers for free, like the locals do.

8.  Many councils will provide free Spanish lessons for “extranjeros”, so take advantage of them like we did.

9.  Many hotels such as NH Hotels do special offers for over 60s, and only one person has to be over 60, so be nice to your partner if they are older than you!  Also check with your local travel agent for special deals for over 55s.